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24 Hours In Panama A Travel Guide To Panama City
anama is an adventure steamy cloud forests, mountains,
wonderland just waiting to waterfalls, raging rivers,
be discovered. The abandoned forts, as well as
country’s expansive rainforests desert.
are among the richest and most
complex on the planet. It’s the In Panama you can spend the
only country where jaguars and morning diving in the Caribbean
pumas prowl just a short drive and the afternoon swimming in the
from the capital. Its vast, Pacific. You can explore historic
roadless jungles are home to over ruins of the colonial era…dive
940 recorded bird species and 105 for Sir Francis Drake’s lead
endangered species, including the coffin (supposedly buried at sea
spectacled bear, the Central near Portobello Bay)…see the
American tapir, the American rainforest in an aerial tram…ride
crocodile, the scarlet macaw, as a dug-out canoe to a native
well as several eagle species. Indian village…discover the
remote and mysterious forests of
This small, untapped country the Darién region right on the
offers some of the finest diving, border of Colombia (where the
birdwatching, and deep-sea roads end a few miles before the
fishing in all of the border, leaving you with the
Americas—yet only the most avid feeling you’ve reached the end of
adventurers are aware of it. civilization)…come nose-to-nose
Panama boasts scores of deserted with a red-napped tamarind monkey
palm-lined beaches, miles of lush or a trio of colorful toucans…
rainforests, great national
parks, mysterious mangroves Conde Nast Traveler, in an
(where you’ll feel like you’ve article from its February 2005
been transported back to a time issue said "Panama has temperate
when dinosaurs walked the earth), rain forests, great surf and
beaches, and more birdlife than Argentina, tel. (507)269-4353).
any other country in Central Here you can enjoy breakfast
America. Now…it also has a newly Panama style and indulge in a
elected administration that wants hearty feed of carimañol—a yummy
travelers to enjoy every bit of roll made of mashed yucca and
it." stuffed with ground beef and
boiled eggs—and a side of corn
Fortunately, Panama is a small tortillas, that more resemble
country. In a short one- or silverdollar pancakes than taco
two-week trip, you can see much shells. The bill should be less
of what this diverse country has than $8, even with that second
to offer. café con leche.
In this special report, the IL Trip to the Miraflores Locks
team proposes a plan to get the
most out of 24 hours in Panama. No trip to Panama is complete
From a traditional Panamanian without seeing the "Eighth Wonder
breakfast to a trip to the of the World," the Panama Canal.
Miraflores Locks to evening According to the Panama Canal
drinks in a little boutique hotel Authority "The history of the
overlooking the Bay of Panama…we construction of the Panama Canal
have it all thought out. is the saga of human ingenuity
and courage: years of sacrifice,
Breakfast in El Trapiche crushing defeat, and final
victory." This statement, while
Exploring the best Panama has to true, doesn’t go far enough to
offer is hungry work. Start your describe the mighty toll taken by
day on a full stomach and head the building of the Panama Canal.
for breakfast in El Trapiche, a Construction began in 1904 and
busy diner in El Cangrejo (Vía took 10 years to complete. It
remains one of the greatest to see large ships passing
engineering achievements of all through.
time, completed despite
landslides, disease, setbacks, Tamales in Casco Viejo
and the loss of 75,000 lives in
total. Engineers directed most of By now you’re probably feeling a
the actual construction, which tad peckish… Time to hop on a bus
cost $375 million, and involved or hail a taxi and make your way
the excavation of 240 million toward Casco Viejo for tamales.
cubic yards of earth. If you’re in luck, you’ll bump
into Luis Antonio Visuette on the
The Canal, 51 miles long, opened streets of Casco Viejo, where he
to shipping in August 1914 and has been selling delicious
was formally dedicated on July homemade tamales, wrapped in
12, 1920. In 1921, the U.S. paid plaintain leaves, for more than
Colombia $25 million as redress 10 years. With his Yankee cap and
for the loss of Panama; in five-gallon bucket of hot and
exchange, Colombia formally spicy tameles calientitos, Luis
recognized Panama’s independence. is hard to miss. These lunchtime
treats are available in both
On average it takes a vessel large (50 cents), and small (25
eight hours to travel from one cents), and are a real hit when
ocean to the other, passing washed down with an ice-cold
through three sets of locks. The drink. International Living’s
best place to see the Canal is local office is located in the
from the Miraflores Locks (open 9 Casco Viejo area, in the
a.m. to 5 p.m., admission free). Cathedral Plaza, next to the
Make sure to get to the Panama Canal Museum and just in
Miraflores Locks for 9 a.m. as front of the stunning
this is when you are most likely Metropolitan Cathedral, so if you
want to enjoy your tamales in our
office (Luis will be making the During Morgan’s attack, this
rounds) call in for a Panamanian original Panama City was burned
style "power lunch." to the ground. Two years later,
in 1673, the capital was moved
Explore Casco Viejo two miles to the west, and
present-day Panama City was
Located at the mouth of the founded. This is the area now
Panama Canal, Casco Viejo is the known as Casco Viejo.
oldest city on the Pacific Coast
of the Americas…although it was As the city was being rebuilt by
there long before the Canal was the Spanish settlers, they
built. decided to build a massive
surrounding wall and a stronger
In fairness to history, the fortress for its protection and
original Panama City (now known to ensure that the enormous
as Old Panama or Panama La Vieja) wealth in gold and silver that
was founded in 1519, about two passed through it would never
miles from the center of Panama again be susceptible to the likes
City as we know it today. From of Henry Morgan.
here, expeditions were mounted to
conquer the Inca Empire of South The new city boasted a
America and all of the wealth cross-sectioned design of 38
pillaged from Peru, Chile, and blocks, with three main streets
California flowed to Spain running from east to west and
through Old Panama. It is no seven streets running from north
surprise that this booty to south. Unfortunately, this
attracted pirates like Henry urban development was interrupted
Morgan, who looted the city in by various fires that devastated
1671. its streets. In 1737, the "big
fire" destroyed two thirds of the
city, and the "small fire" of Up until the early parts of this
1756 destroyed more than 90 century, Casco Viejo remained a
houses. These and other thriving cultural center. But as
catastrophic fires help explain Panama City modernized, and as
why so few true examples of the automotive age made
Spanish colonial architecture transportation easier, it spread
exist today. outward, leaving Casco Viejo
behind. The old city’s narrow
The fortress still survives, labyrinth streets were difficult
though, and today houses several for cars to maneuver and its
important, cultural, and historic buildings were obsolete in
buildings and monuments. But it comparison to modern skyscrapers
is the architecture of Casco being built. By the mid 1900s,
Viejo that makes it so special. Casco Viejo had gone the way of
The old Spanish colonial style is most city centers of that
overlaid with French balconies century. No longer the center of
and architecture, remnants of the Panama City, it was too oppressed
French inhabitants who made the for the upper class and quickly
initial attempt to build the became a poor area of
Panama Canal in 1881. Over the tenement-style housing.
years, a Caribbean influence also
took hold and, today, Casco Viejo The area is currently undergoing
is a melting pot of architectural a complete transformation,
inspiration and style, with some however. Restaurants and bars are
buildings dating as far back as opening with gusto, tourists are
300 years. coming in growing numbers, and
people from all over now want to
Museums, shopping, and fortune make their homes in Casco Viejo.
telling
In 1997, UNESCO declared Casco learn about Panama’s history as
Viejo a Patrimony of Humanity. the connector between the
Today, it is revered as the Atlantic and the Pacific from
historic center of Panama City. pre-Hispanic to modern times.
Two- and three-story houses with Next door is the Museum of
flower-adorned balconies overlook National History and across the
narrow streets. At its tip is way is the National Cathedral.
French Park, where you will find Nearby is a small museum
the French Embassy and a monument dedicated to religious art, found
to the hardy French builders who in the old Santo Domingo
began the Panama Canal. On one monastery. This is where you will
side is an historical Spanish find the famous Flat Arch, which
building called Las Bovedas, now reportedly helped convince
housing an art gallery and French engineers that Panama was
restaurant. Panama’s Supreme earthquake-proof and a
Court was once housed here. A geologically stable area for
walkway around the monument building the Canal. A few blocks
offers a nice view of the Amador away is the old San Jose
Causeway, Bridge of the Americas, Cathedral, with gleaming spires
and Panama City’s skyscraper inlaid with mother-of-pearl and
skyline to the east. A plaque its beautiful gold altar,
commemorates the firing of canon intricately carved of wood and
shots to ward off a Colombian gilded with gold. This is a
warship and solidify Panama’s must-see when you visit Casco
independence from Colombia in Viejo.
1903.
Casco Viejo is home to the
There are excellent museums in Presidential House. If you want
the Casco Viejo area, including to see this, be sure to come on a
the Museo de Canal. Here, you can Sunday as it is closed to the
public for the rest of the week. make your way to The Bristol
Famous sons and daughters of Hotel, just a short taxi journey
Panama also make their homes from Casco Viejo. Dining at the
here, including actor/singer (and Barandas Restaurant at The
now Panama’s minister of tourism) Bristol Hotel is an event to
Ruben Blades, and boxer Roberto savor. The Panamanian-inspired
Duran. gourmet cuisine, restful
ambiance, stunning presentation,
Bargain hunters can take a break elegant settings, and attentive
from the historical sights at service combine to create an
Salsipuedes, which roughly unforgettable dining experience.
translates to "get out if you
can." Located just before the A Trip To Panama Caught Your
entrance to Casco Viejo, it is Fancy?
Panama’s bizarre bazaar, a street
so narrow and filled with vendors Hopefully, this special report
that it is dark at noon. A few has given you a few ideas on how
steps away is Santa Ana’s Plaza, to spend your time in Panama, but
where you can have your fortune don’t forget that this amazing
told for just $5. country has much more to offer.
Pacific Coast beaches near the
Dine at The Bristol city; Coiba Island National
Marine Park; and the Darién
To finish off your day in style, Province to name just a few.
About the Author:
This article initially appeared in International Living. Subscriptions to IL's Free E-Letter are available here.
Read more articles by: Eimear O'Driscoll
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