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Backpackers And Billionaires
t used to be that Suva, it was the policy of the
backpacking trips to Fiji Fiji government that the Yasawas
involved a bus ride from were closed to land-based
Nadi to Suva, then a ferry to tourism. The long years of
somewhere like Ovalau, Savusavu, military-backed government
Taveuni or Kadavu. No more. These brought few changes to the
days young budget travelers are Yasawas, although Australian
lining up to go to the Yasawa investors were allowed to
Islands, a chain of 16 large construct the deluxe Yasawa
volcanic islands and dozens of Island Resort (www.yasawa.com) in
smaller ones roughly 35 km off 1991 and a couple of
the west coast of Viti Levu. village-operated backpacker camps
sprang up on Wayasewa and Waya.
The dazzling white beaches, clear Since the early 1980s, local
warm waters, colorful coral families have operated three
reefs, and sunny dry climate make small low-budget resorts on
the Yasawa Group an ideal tourist Tavewa Island, thanks largely to
destination, but until recently a Tavewa’s status as a
visit involved a rough sea voyage freehold island beyond the
from Lautoka in an unsafe village authority of the Fijian chiefs.
boat—or an expensive For decades local church leaders
seaplane flight from Nadi. Blue have portrayed tourism as a
Lagoon Cruises has been plying corrupting outside influence to
the Yasawas since the 1950s, but be kept at arms length from
passengers aboard those upscale village life.
vessels sleep in staterooms and
local residents receive few It would be hard to imagine
benefits from their presence. anything more removed from real
Fijian life than Turtle Island
Until the 1987 Rabuka coups in Resort on Nanuya Levu Island,
Fiji’s ultimate hideaway volunteer California eye
for the US$1,500-a-night crowd. specialists visits Turtle Island
Nanuya Levu has been freehold Resort to perform eye surgery on
land since 1868, and in 1972 needy villagers or to equip them
Richard Evanson used US$300,000 with donated prescription
he earned in the Southern glasses.
California cable television
business to buy the island. Yet for most Yasawans, life has
changed little since 1789 when
Evanson’s Turtle Island Captain William Bligh and loyal
Resort (www.turtlefiji.com) members of his crew paddled past
became the prototype of the group in an open boat shortly
Fiji’s current crop of after the famous mutiny on the
boutique island resorts, hosting Bounty. Even today, most villages
notables like Hollywood stars and are without electricity or
millionaires. Brooke Shields running water, and opportunities
stayed here during the 1980 for economic development are very
filming of the escapist classic limited. The Yasawans have felt
The Blue Lagoon. neglected by politicians in the
distant capital, envious
A self-styled environmentalist, onlookers as mini-cruise ships
Evanson has planted thousands of and yachts carried wealthy
trees on his island, and has foreigners along their shores.
converted the mangrove forests
into tourist attractions by In May 2000, rabble-rouser George
cleverly creating boardwalks. The Speight and assorted thugs seized
resort’s food is grown in the Parliament building in Suva,
organic gardens and power is turning Fiji on its head.
generated using solar and wind Speight’s pro-indigenous
energy. Each year a group of rhetoric struck a chord in the
Yasawas. Villagers from Nacula locally-operated resorts around
Island staged a mini-coup on the Blue Lagoon in the central
Turtle Island, locking Evanson in Yasawas, including the three
one of his 14 luxurious bungalows existing properties on Tavewa.
as village youths rode wildly All resort operators must conform
around Nanuya Levu on to a strict code of conduct
Evanson’s golf carts. intended to preserve the
environment and guarantee
When the excitement died down, acceptable levels of service.
plaited mats were spread and kava Though primitive compared to the
roots were pounded, and over many luxurious Mamanuca resorts off
bowls of grog, Evanson and the Nadi, the Yasawa backpacker camps
villagers came to an provide basic food and
understanding. accommodations at a relatively
low price.
Rather than killing the golden
goose, Evanson convinced the The mass influx of backpackers
Nacula people that they’d only began in 2002 when Awesome
be better off opening resorts of Adventures (www.awesomefiji.com),
their own and allowing him to a subsidiary of New Zealand-owned
continue running his business in South Sea Cruises, launched a
peace. fast catamaran service up and
down the chain. You can now
Evanson offered interest-free depart Nadi’s Denarau
construction loans and Marina on the Yasawa Flyer any
promotional support, and the morning at 9:15 a.m. and be at
Nacula Tikina Tourism Association the resort of your choice in time
was born. The association’s for lunch. As many as 150
Web site (www.fijibudget.com) backpackers do this every day and
currently describes a dozen the village-operated resorts on
Kuata, Wayasewa, Waya, Naviti, with a bus transfer to the harbor
Tavewa, Nacula, Nanuya Lailai, included. Deluxe lodgings and
and Matacawa Levu are booming. gourmet food should not be
expected at any of the Yasawa
Reservations can be made upon resorts—yet the friendly
arrival at Nadi Airport through people, spectacular natural
any one of a dozen 24-hour travel beauty, and low prices make most
agencies right in the airport travelers overlook these
terminal itself. All of these inconveniences.
offices sell catamaran tickets
About the Author:
David Stanley is the author of Moon Handbooks Fiji http://www.southpacific.org/fiji.html and his online guide to Fiji may be perused at http://www.southpacific.org/text/finding_fiji.html
You have permission to publish this article electronically or in print, free of charge, so long as the byline and resource box are included. Please do not use this article without the byline and resource box.
Source: www.isnare.com
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