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Chiang Mai Thailand s Temple Of The Dogs
nto the Arms of Buddha Stunningly designed, absolutely!
But each houses a wax replica of
It was 5 p.m. and I was an elderly monk sitting in a
stalking an angel on temple clear box. File them under “way
grounds. As the rain started, I too real looking” to pass time
wondered if she would show with. What can I say? Lack of
herself at all. Chiang Mai’s rain blinking disturbs me. Beside, if
patterns are directly correlated wax can achieve the lotus
with the contents of my purse. position, why can’t I?
The resulting meteorological
phenomena means the rain could To escape the deluge, my shelter
stop in a matter of seconds or took the form of a gazebo housing
pour down for days, depending on three large Buddhas. I would not
whether or not I’d brought my be alone. One by one, temple
umbrella. I had not. residents trickled in. The first
went straight to a mat he
Squinting into the droplets, I obviously kept laid out for these
glared up at the massive Chedi, a moments. Two more just sat down
Lanna-style stupa which draws in and licked themselves. By the
visitors from across Northern time the skies opened up
Thailand. Sure it’s impressive, completely, three more temple
but what I want to know is: How dogs had meandered into the
can you have such a large shelter.
building sitting there for 700
years and not install any doors? Carrying dog cookies is just
Surely it has rained here before. something I do. I could explain
myself, but people either get it
Where to hide? No way would I or never will. I tossed five
take shelter in the two beautiful treats out and turned to the
little buildings in front of me. sixth dog, Lek (Thai for little).
She had vanished. Not possible. taught at this temple complex.
Would she go back out in the Out of a potential hell these
rain? Is there a dog door in the unique Buddhist sites have been
side of the Chedi? transformed into a sort of canine
Nirvana.
I surrendered Lek’s cookie to an
antique looking Weimaraner. Initially, students and friends
Predictably, that’s when I helped Ajarn Rosocon care for the
spotted her. Out of the corner of dogs. They fed, sterilized,
my eye I noticed her sitting in treated mange, vaccinated…
the right hand of a Buddha. She whatever they could manage from
yawned, nestled perfectly into the pennies (baht) they scraped
Buddha’s arms and fell fast together. The group was
asleep. After six years of determined that the dogs of Chedi
visiting Wat Chedi Luang, the Luang and Phan Tau not suffer the
temple still brings a grin to my life faced by so many abandoned
face. Must be why I keep coming and sick temple dogs across SE
back. Asia.
Angels of Chedi Luang In 2005 Ajarn Rosocon
unexpectedly died. A friend, Ann
Actually, as the donation box Pierce, and another devoted
says, “It all started about ten friend/student Khun Soonthree
years ago.” Ajarn Rosocon, a stepped in. Adopting Rosocon’s
teacher at Chiang Mai’s Rajabaht dream as their own, they went
University, decided to make the forward, honoring a friend’s
dogs of Wat Chedi Luang and the memory by helping the helpless.
adjoining Wat Phan Tau her Ultimately, Khun Soonthree became
mission. Ajarn is Thai for in many eyes the “Angel of Chedi
teacher. Her best lessons were Luang.”
Touring the Temples Most people visit Wat Chedi
Luang’s temple complex for the
Wat Chedi Luang has become a impressive ancient Chedi. In
refuge not just for dogs, but for addition, its beautiful grounds
all animal lovers. If travelers are perfect for strolling,
become overwhelmed by the sight quietly removed from the city’s
and plight of street dogs or frenzy. Vendors offer food and
simply need a quiet escape they cool drink. Trees and benches
visit this ‘feel good’ temple. offer hospitable shade. The
Try it yourself. Play tourist, adjoining Wat Phan Tau casts a
take photos, pat a willing pup, luminous teak glow over the
or bring a picnic – it’s all Buddha images it houses.
good. Then at 6 p.m. watch for
the angel. Over a year after Better still, the aptly named
Ajarn Rosocon death, Khun “Monk Chat” area offer travelers
Soonthree still feeds and cares a welcoming invitation to pull up
for the temple dogs. a chair and, quite obviously,
chat with monks. A casual
Word has it she never misses a atmosphere where international
day. She was there in the rainy visitors just hang out with
season when her own home flooded Buddhist monks is a fabulous
several times. She was there in forum for asking questions and
the storm when Lek and I sought learning about one another’s
shelter. Her bright yellow rain lives. In the background the
slicker and massive pot of rice voices of novice monks echo
mix carried her through the outward from classroom windows.
tempest. If it is 6 o’clock in
Chiang Mai, she’s there right Who’s Who?
now.
Of course, for a few of us the a beeline for the ubiquitous ‘5
temples house one more special baht meat-on-a-stick’ vendor. “No
treasure – the dogs. Not all are need to heat it sir.”
social. Not all are loyal. Some
are downright ornery. But to know Next, is Lady. She works with a
the “who’s who” of Chedi Luang local artist by delicately
canines adds to the fun of any charming customers to his
visit. True most tourists barely postcard rack. From there they
notice them – except to do a get a close-up look at his lovely
quick sidestep away. Like many hand sketched works. I suspect
regulars, however, I’ve given Lady pulls in a commission.
most nicknames.
Friendly Little Lek hovers at
Take Ren and Stumpy for example. ordinary in the looks department.
Ren, a diminutive twig of a dog, But every dog is beautiful when
is the duo’s personality. Stumpy, they sleep in Buddha’s arms.
who has a front leg contorted up
underneath, provides a bit of Not all is perfect. When I first
size (a valuable asset in the saw Hiccup, I thought he had just
world of temple dog politics) to been poisoned. Now I know the
the team. Side by side the pair perpetual hack must be a medical
can be found on a building patio problem. A bone lodged somewhere
overlooking the Chedi's north or… I can not say. While not
face. overly social, Hiccup is
stunningly photogenic.
Ren works her magic, charming the
visitors with enthusiastic At the front entrance of Chedi
greetings. Then Stumpy shows his Luang are the three Golden Boys.
handicap, Abracadabra! Any At least I think they are boys.
traveler with half a heart makes They rarely stand. This is the
first place Khun Soonthree feeds
each evening. Looking at the The latest I have notice is
girth of the Golden Boys, it’s a named, “Oh Crap, Where Are My
tad surprising there is any food Ears?” Oh Crap…, or Ears for
left for any other temple dogs. short, must be an abandoned pet.
He is way too forlorn looking.
Across from them lives Lucy – the It’s as though he desperately
Teddy Bear dog. Had you seen her wants a master. However, he’s
before her haircut, you would willing to settle for jerky
have expected to find seams and a treats - or bigger ears.
price tag.
Chubby, a pseudo red Chow, and
No one knows exactly how many Pigeon Chaser top off the list of
dogs live at Chedi Luang, 60+ charmers over at Wat Phan Tau.
perhaps. Other notable characters Pigeon Chaser will pass any
include Cookie Monster, whose domestic chicken, but heaven help
cantankerous attitude and dull the wild birds if he ever sprouts
looks are well compensated for by wings. The young monks at Phan
the fact that he is the only one Tau are especially loving toward
who actually likes the dull old their smaller population of
dry dog cookies I bring. temple dogs. It is truly a joy to
Apparently others prefer Khun watch them interact. Saffron
Soonthree’s cooking to mine. robes and happy tails flourish
side by side.
Living on the north face of the
Chedi is Scar and her three The influence Chedi Luang has on
puppies. Some dogs turn up at the animal lovers is best summed up
temple pregnant. Still, her by Ann Pierce. A former volunteer
puppies Goldie, Blackie, and Coco with the dogs, Ann has returned
Puff are well cared for. to California, but wrote this in
an email interview: door.
“I cannot begin to articulate the Please remember Wats are Buddhist
impact the dogs, Ajarn Rosocon, Temples first and foremost. Dress
Khun Soonthree, Wat Chedi Luang conservatively and behave
and all the other people I met respectfully. They don’t have to
through my time in Chiang Mai has let the visitors or the dogs
had on me. I’m a very different stay. Honor yourself by the
person because of my experiences. example you set.
My dream is to one day move back
to Chiang Mai and continue How Can You Help?
helping the animals, no matter
how frustrating it is at times.” Visit Chedi Luang, have a great
time, then spread the word.
Getting There
Feeding starts at the main
You can take a Tuk Tuk to visit entrance between 5:30 and 6:00
Wat Chedi Luang. Most drivers each night. Stop by and show Khun
know of this popular temple. On Soonthree your appreciation of
foot enter the old city from the her work.
famous Tha Phae Gate (east moat
gate) and continue straight up Please make a donation in one of
Ratchadamnoen Road about four the temples three Dog Donation
blocks to the first street light Boxes, set up around the Chedi.
– Phra Pokklao Rd. Turn left. Your money goes to food,
You’ll immediately see the vaccinations, mange treatment,
spectacular Teak Wood Temple of sterilization of females (and
Wat Phan Tau on your right. Take males when it can be afforded),
a look inside. Wat Chedi Luang’s and general care.
larger complex is located next
The main Wat is currently
undergoing a massive restoration. Helping Dogs in Chiang Mai
Making a donation to support the
construction work, the temple and If you live in Thailand, consider
the temple’s school is good for helping change the world one
all the residents – two and four temple at a time. Get advice form
legged (or 3.5 – sorry Stumpy). angels and/or adopt your own
temple – with permission of the
Getting the Most from Your Visit! monks. Make it a family,
business, class or club project.
Never approach any dog that seems Work with a reputable vet. Dr.
reluctant. Get acquainted slowly Nook in Chiang Mai is aces!
with the friendly animals. Their
continued socialization, or at Other organizations that help
least apathy to people, keeps pets in the Chiangmai area
them from wearing out their temples include Lanna Dog Rescue
welcome at the temple. and Care for Dogs. Both have web
sites and are always looking for
Do not bring too many good volunteers or donations of funds,
tasting cookies: bacon, pork foods and materials.
rings, a side of beef… The bigger
dogs will follow and fights can In addition, Care for Dogs also
ensue with defenseless smaller has a wonderful shelter offering
ones. Dry old dog cookies rate adoptions of healthy rescued dogs
low on the taste scale. In other and puppies to good homes.
words, they are a perfect cheap Remember, for each new pet that
way to give snacks to those that finds a family, space is made for
will eat them eventually. If in a suffering dog to be brought
doubt, donate the money instead. into their facility. What a
It goes to the right place. beautiful way to help one - dog
at a time.
About the Author:
Nola L. Kelsey is the author of Bitch Unleashed: The Harsh Realities of Goin’ Country and coauthor of the scathing political satire Keeping the Masses Down. She is currently wandering SE Asia for two years while she pretends to write her next book.Read more of Kelsey’s work at, http://www.nolakelsey
Read more articles by: Nola Lee Kelsey
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