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Hello From Austria Medieval History Up Close At The Riegersburg Fortress And Explorations Of Styria s Volcano Region II



W


e were planning to see         which included the stunning       
the other exhibition:         baroque White Hall as well as the 
“Legendary Riegersburg –      construction of the numerous      
Legendary Women”. Two very            bastions, gates and the extensive 
colourful female characters are       walls surrounding the castle.     
associated with the history of        Several inscriptions above        
this fortress. The first one was      different gates point out that    
Baroness Elisabeth Katharina von      she spent a lot of money on this  
Galler (1607 to 1672) who was the     construction work. Her husband    
lady of the castle from 1648 to       incurred major debt and in 1649   
1672. In a time of very               she paid him out with a           
traditional male-female role          substantial sum of money and got  
expectations the “Galllerin” was      rid of him. Altogether Baroness   
a very unconventional character       von Galler was married three      
and strayed from the usual norms.     times and involved in several     
Women, even aristocratic women,       legal battles with her husbands,  
were not allowed to own property      and local clergy.                 
at the time, and Elisabeth, as                                          
the sole heiress of the fortress,     The other interesting female      
would have had to relinquish any      character featured in the         
property ownership to her             “Legendary Women” exhibition is   
husband, but she refused to           Katharina Paldauf who was an      
comply. Even in her prenuptial        employee of Baroness von Galler   
agreement she ensured the right       for whom she started working at   
to decide over her property           20 years of age. From 1673 to     
herself.                              1675 she got embroiled in the     
                                      Feldbach Witch Trial and was      
Baroness Elisabeth von Galler         accused of having manipulated     
initiated a complete                  weather and participated in witch 
reconstruction of the fortress        Sabbaths.The legends also say     



that she was able to grow roses       they pleased. Often a peasant     
in winter, a talent that earned       would require the permission of a 
her the moniker “the flower           lord when he intended to marry,   
witch”. For her supernatural          and onerous taxes were imposed on 
powers to grow flowers in the         the peasant class. These harsh    
off-season she was accused being      conditions actually led to many   
a witch and was presumably            peasant rebellions throughout     
executed in 1675.                     Central Europe in the 16h         
                                      century.                          
Various displays in the                                                 
exhibition also shed light on the     The noblemen on the other hand    
historical background of the 16th     lived a lavish lifestyle. An      
and 17th centuries. Servitude and     inscription at the entrance of    
feudalism characterized the power     the fortress indicates that an    
structures during the Middle          excessive feast during the 1600s  
Ages, and peasants had a very         resulted in 21 days of binge      
difficult life while aristocrats      eating and drinking. The          
formed a hereditary elite that        opulently decorated Knights Hall  
was entitled to hold lands and        was the location of many such     
exercise far-reaching powers over     bouts and a wooden bridge         
the common people. The mostly         connecting it with another hall   
agrarian economy at the time          was used for relieving oneself    
obligated peasants to deliver a       after all this carousing and is   
substantial share of their            commonly referred to as the       
production to the local lords and     “vomiting bridge”. Even today the 
noblemen who in turn promised         figure of a man bent over adorns  
them protection during periods of     the bridge, reminding people of   
war. This was an era of extensive     its original purpose.             
exploitation and lords had the                                          
right to use peasants’ land as        We were awed by the lavish        



detailing in the former living        picturesque main square of the    
quarters of the Riegersburg, in       village and there is a large pond 
particular by the Hall of Knights     on the outskirts of the village   
with its coffered ceiling and the     that features a resort with beach 
opulently decorated baroque White     volleyball, a water slide, tennis 
Hall. When we walked through the      and eateries.                     
premises, the White Hall still                                          
featured table decorations and        We then continued our big country 
leftovers from a wedding that had     drive to our next destination:    
been held a few days earlier at       the Castle of Kapfenstein, about  
the fortress. The castle today is     20 minutes from the Riegersburg,  
owned by the Liechtenstein            is also located on an extinct     
family, an aristocratic family        volcano close to the Hungarian    
that has been living at this          and Slovenian borders. Its        
castle since 1972. One of the         recorded history dates back to    
family members had just recently      1065 and it was one of the        
gotten married. The beautiful         fortresses that protected Austria 
flower decorations and wedding        from attacks by the Magyars and   
menus gave us an idea of what         Turks. The castle was owned by    
some of these historic feasts         different noble families until it 
must have looked like.                came into the possession of the   
                                      Winkler-Hermaden family in 1898.  
We had enjoyed our first-hand                                           
history lesson and were ready to      Today the castle holds a 15-room  
keep exploring so we walked down      upscale hotel as well as a        
the long basaltic road into the       restaurant with extensive outdoor 
town of Riegersburg that sprawls      patios that provide a stunning    
at the foot of the fortress. A        view into the surrounding         
baroque church and several            countryside. We picked a          
restaurants anchor the                beautiful spot on the terrace and 



started perusing the menu. A          them for a little backyard        
wedding had obviously just            get-together on my last evening   
happened at the castle hotel          in Austria. Both my friends are   
because the bride and the groom       avid motor scooter riders and     
were still carrying presents out      Luis allowed me to hop on one of  
to their vehicles. We decided to      their two-wheeled machines and    
taste some local delicacies, and      accompanied me on a little test   
I enjoyed my mushroom soup with       drive. I had ridden a motor       
roasted buckwheat and a cheese        scooter for the first and so far  
platter with a broad assortment       only time in my life on the       
of Austrian specialty cheeses.        island of Ibiza and was           
                                      exhilarated to have another go at 
Our late lunch had stretched into     it. After some initial balancing  
the mid-afternoon and it was now      problems and after getting used   
time to continue our journey. But     to adjusting the gas on the       
before moving on we took a little     handlebar grip we finally got off 
15 minute stroll through a forest     to a decent start on our little   
and some vineyards to a small         adventure and took an exciting    
chapel on the plateau next to the     spin on the local country roads.  
Castle of Kapfenstein. From here                                        
we had a perfect view northwards      Twenty minutes later we returned  
and through a magnifying viewer       and sat down in their beautiful   
we were able to see our previous      garden, admiring the large pond   
destination, the volcanic cone of     that the two of them had created. 
the Riegersburg.                      We all reminisced a bit about the 
                                      time in 2005 when my brother, my  
It was time to return so we           sister-in-law and these two       
started our drive back to Weiz.       friends had come to Toronto for a 
We had made arrangements with our     visit. This was the first time    
friends Luis and Isabella to join     that I saw my friends again, this 



time on their home turf. We were      Without a doubt this has been my  
even thinking that one of these       best visit since I left my home   
years we should do a joint skiing     town 21 years ago. Nine days just 
vacation in Schladming in Upper       wasn’t long enough to even        
Styria, a phenomenal skiing           explore the sights of my          
region that is often the location     immediate area. In addition to    
world cup ski races and a place       the wonderful connections with my 
where my friends go skiing on a       family and some good friends, I   
regular basis.                        had learned during the last few   
                                      days that Styria, the region I    
The sun was starting to set and       was born into, was certainly on   
it was time for me to get back to     par with many other tourism areas 
brother’s place and to start          that I have visited throughout    
packing my suitcase. I said           North America and Europe.         
goodbye to my friends and invited                                       
them to come for another visit to     Styria’s beautiful landscapes,    
Toronto. Ewald, Anneliese and I       the extensive opportunities for   
spent another nice few hours at       outdoor recreation, the           
their home as I got ready for my      architecture, history, music,     
departure, feeling rather sad         culture, and last but not least,  
about the impending end of my         the delicious cuisine will        
trip.                                 definitely make me come back      
                                      again.                            




About the Author:

Susanne Pacher is the publisher of http://www.travelandtransitions.com, a web portal for unconventional travel & cross-cultural connections. Check out our FREE ebooks about travel.


Published At: www.Isnare.com


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    Hello From Austria Medieval History Up Close At The Riegersburg Fortress And Explorations Of Styria s Volcano Region II