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Off The Beaten Track In Kenya Africa



W


e are looking forward to       clock at Mbita point and soon we  
visiting the light house      are at the gate of Lake Victoria  
at Lake Victoria Safari       Safari Village. The sign on the   
Village at Mbita point. Spending      entrance promises relation at the 
a few days in it will be a new        beach, bird watching and          
experience. The landscape from        excursions on the Lake.           
Kisumu to Luanda Kotieno on the                                         
shores of Asembo Bay, off the         The light house stands stark      
road to Bondo, is full of ancient     white against the blue sky and    
features: age-old Cambrian rocks      the blue waters of Lake Victoria, 
fill the Hills along the tarmac       making a perfect picture for a    
road and Kit Mikaye, the gigantic     post card. The Islands of         
borders sitting atop each other.      Rusinga, Mfa’ngano and the        
At Ndori we turn left onto the        smaller twin’s one called Mbasa   
dusty murrum road to Luanda           sit calmly on the Lake. The local 
Kotieno to catch the 11oclock         fishermen ‘colorful boats sail on 
ferry to Mbita point. It runs         the roughening waves, there white 
like clock work so if you miss it     sails at full mast. Finally we    
you have to wait for the next         get to Lake Victoria Safari       
three hours for the next trip.        Village, a creation of odd Bredo, 
                                      engineer of repute.               
The Lake is calm, with water                                            
birds here and there and in a         We are so excited about the white 
distance a strange dust devil         house that we waste no time       
appears. It’s a whole cloud of        climbing up the stairs and into   
the harmless minute flies that        the room with a view. Its Bredo   
breed in the water and sometimes      dream house as he tells us about  
in the swamp places.                  the building of the light house,  
                                      which could be the only light     
Forty-five minutes later, we          house on the Kenyan side of Lake  



Victoria with justifiable pride.      Maasai necklaces on the walls and 
                                      a small blue table and two chairs 
“I build bridges,” says Bredo a       by the window. Blue is the        
Norwegian. He has worked in many      traditional color of lighthouse   
countries in Africa and it was        decor. A platform with a          
during one such project that he       collection of stones that once    
landed at Mbita point and met his     belonged to his mother forms an   
wife Louise, and set up a new         artistic showpiece of colors and  
home on the shores of the Lake.       shapes. There is nothing          
That was in 1990 in between           ostentatious or expressive in the 
building bridges, Bredo’s busy        room but it is a place you would, 
working at Safari Village with        nevertheless, want to live in.    
the latest addition, the                                                
lighthouse.                           The platform conceals part of the 
                                      staircase leading from the room   
The lighthouse is stunning. It        to the bathroom below. If ever    
reminds of calendar from Greece,      there was a bathtub with a view   
with pictures of stark white          these has got to be it. Maya’s    
houses surrounded by blue skies       [my niece] audible expressions    
and waters.                           say it all. If the wall wasn’t    
                                      there, the bath tub would blend   
We climb up the stairs and onto       in with the Lake. No wonder the   
the patio eagerly waiting for         lighthouse is the honeymooners    
Bredo to open the door to the         dream hideaway.                   
light house. The white washed                                           
bedroom is spacious with windows      After our guided trip around the  
opening to the Lake’s blue            lighthouse, and having unpacked   
waters. It’s a beautiful              and lounged on the bed            
roundavel with a four-poster bed      overlooking the sea. I mean, I’m  
facing the Lake, blue beaded          a water person so I’ am totally   



sold-we join Bredo in the garden      Growing up in Norway, Bredo spent 
for a cold beer. The bird life is     many summer holidays in light     
just awesome. Within a few            house which his father rented. It 
minutes at the lighthouse, I have     became a boyhood dream to build   
seen a tiny malachite kingfisher      his own one day.                  
flit past in resplendent hues of                                        
blue and orange, pled kingfishers     “Now I have the time to build     
and the regal African kingfishers     one,” says the jovial             
out of the horizon from behind        Scandinavian. With a team of      
the lighthouse and sweep down to      local artisans, he built the      
grab a fish from the Lake.            lighthouse in a year and opened   
                                      it in October 2005.               
The garden is filled with yellow                                        
weaver birds busy building nests      “A lighthouse needs a very solid  
on the thorn trees and Maya is        foundation because it’s           
busy building sand castles on the     surrounded by water and sand and  
beach.                                built on a rocky peninsula. The   
                                      walls are reinforced with columns 
“The lighthouse is a structure        and slope inwards.”               
for guiding ships using sharp                                           
lights,” Bredo explains,” but         The place is magical. Its sunset  
they are going out of fashion         and Bredo has a table set on the  
because of the GPS [Global            beach from where he wants to show 
Positioning System].In the olden      us a perfect sunset. The sky      
days light houses where marked on     turns gold, orange and red, with  
maps. In those old days people        the blue getting faint as it      
lived in lighthouses to take care     darkens. The sun, a ball of gold, 
of the lights and operate the fog     begin to slid in the dark waters  
horn to guide the ships.”             bang in the middle of the twin    
                                      Islands of Mbasa.Its stunning,    



its surreal.                          that surrealism in nature. It     
                                      comes with an appreciation of it. 
“The sun sets between Mbasa                                             
Islands from December 23. It then     FACT FILE                         
begins to move true west,” he                                           
explains, pointing at Mfangano        It’s a beautiful lodge and very   
Island” and you see the sun           economical. Drive to Kisumu, take 
setting there on September 23.It      the road to Mbondo and turn off   
keeps moving and sets on the          at Ndori, drive on the murram     
pointed peak[facing us]on Rusinga     road to Luanda Kotieno.Its three  
Island on June 23,after which it      hours from Kisumu. Alternatively  
shift back to true west by March      drive via Kisii.Full direction    
23 and back to the twin Island by     can be got from landmark          
December 23.”                         safaris.com. These are eight      
                                      bandas and the lighthouse. Great  
The world is fascinated but it        for families or those who want to 
takes special people like the         get off the beaten truck you can  
Bredons, the Fleur Ng’wenos and       visit Ruma National Park.         
the Wangari Maathai’s to show         




About the Author:

Robert is a tour consultant in Kenya and has planned business and vacation safaris for over 10,000 tourists in the East African region. He is a tour operation- major and involved in National tourism policy development in Kenya. For more info visit: http://www.landmarksafaris.com/planner


Read more articles by: Robert Muhoho

Article Source: www.iSnare.com


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    Off The Beaten Track In Kenya Africa