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Off The Beaten Track In Kenya Africa
e are looking forward to clock at Mbita point and soon we visiting the light house are at the gate of Lake Victoria at Lake Victoria Safari Safari Village. The sign on the Village at Mbita point. Spending entrance promises relation at the a few days in it will be a new beach, bird watching and experience. The landscape from excursions on the Lake. Kisumu to Luanda Kotieno on the shores of Asembo Bay, off the The light house stands stark road to Bondo, is full of ancient white against the blue sky and features: age-old Cambrian rocks the blue waters of Lake Victoria, fill the Hills along the tarmac making a perfect picture for a road and Kit Mikaye, the gigantic post card. The Islands of borders sitting atop each other. Rusinga, Mfa’ngano and the At Ndori we turn left onto the smaller twin’s one called Mbasa dusty murrum road to Luanda sit calmly on the Lake. The local Kotieno to catch the 11oclock fishermen ‘colorful boats sail on ferry to Mbita point. It runs the roughening waves, there white like clock work so if you miss it sails at full mast. Finally we you have to wait for the next get to Lake Victoria Safari three hours for the next trip. Village, a creation of odd Bredo, engineer of repute. The Lake is calm, with water birds here and there and in a We are so excited about the white distance a strange dust devil house that we waste no time appears. It’s a whole cloud of climbing up the stairs and into the harmless minute flies that the room with a view. Its Bredo breed in the water and sometimes dream house as he tells us about in the swamp places. the building of the light house, which could be the only light Forty-five minutes later, we house on the Kenyan side of Lake
Victoria with justifiable pride. Maasai necklaces on the walls and a small blue table and two chairs “I build bridges,” says Bredo a by the window. Blue is the Norwegian. He has worked in many traditional color of lighthouse countries in Africa and it was decor. A platform with a during one such project that he collection of stones that once landed at Mbita point and met his belonged to his mother forms an wife Louise, and set up a new artistic showpiece of colors and home on the shores of the Lake. shapes. There is nothing That was in 1990 in between ostentatious or expressive in the building bridges, Bredo’s busy room but it is a place you would, working at Safari Village with nevertheless, want to live in. the latest addition, the lighthouse. The platform conceals part of the staircase leading from the room The lighthouse is stunning. It to the bathroom below. If ever reminds of calendar from Greece, there was a bathtub with a view with pictures of stark white these has got to be it. Maya’s houses surrounded by blue skies [my niece] audible expressions and waters. say it all. If the wall wasn’t there, the bath tub would blend We climb up the stairs and onto in with the Lake. No wonder the the patio eagerly waiting for lighthouse is the honeymooners Bredo to open the door to the dream hideaway. light house. The white washed bedroom is spacious with windows After our guided trip around the opening to the Lake’s blue lighthouse, and having unpacked waters. It’s a beautiful and lounged on the bed roundavel with a four-poster bed overlooking the sea. I mean, I’m facing the Lake, blue beaded a water person so I’ am totally
sold-we join Bredo in the garden Growing up in Norway, Bredo spent for a cold beer. The bird life is many summer holidays in light just awesome. Within a few house which his father rented. It minutes at the lighthouse, I have became a boyhood dream to build seen a tiny malachite kingfisher his own one day. flit past in resplendent hues of blue and orange, pled kingfishers “Now I have the time to build and the regal African kingfishers one,” says the jovial out of the horizon from behind Scandinavian. With a team of the lighthouse and sweep down to local artisans, he built the grab a fish from the Lake. lighthouse in a year and opened it in October 2005. The garden is filled with yellow weaver birds busy building nests “A lighthouse needs a very solid on the thorn trees and Maya is foundation because it’s busy building sand castles on the surrounded by water and sand and beach. built on a rocky peninsula. The walls are reinforced with columns “The lighthouse is a structure and slope inwards.” for guiding ships using sharp lights,” Bredo explains,” but The place is magical. Its sunset they are going out of fashion and Bredo has a table set on the because of the GPS [Global beach from where he wants to show Positioning System].In the olden us a perfect sunset. The sky days light houses where marked on turns gold, orange and red, with maps. In those old days people the blue getting faint as it lived in lighthouses to take care darkens. The sun, a ball of gold, of the lights and operate the fog begin to slid in the dark waters horn to guide the ships.” bang in the middle of the twin Islands of Mbasa.Its stunning,
its surreal. that surrealism in nature. It comes with an appreciation of it. “The sun sets between Mbasa Islands from December 23. It then FACT FILE begins to move true west,” he explains, pointing at Mfangano It’s a beautiful lodge and very Island” and you see the sun economical. Drive to Kisumu, take setting there on September 23.It the road to Mbondo and turn off keeps moving and sets on the at Ndori, drive on the murram pointed peak[facing us]on Rusinga road to Luanda Kotieno.Its three Island on June 23,after which it hours from Kisumu. Alternatively shift back to true west by March drive via Kisii.Full direction 23 and back to the twin Island by can be got from landmark December 23.” safaris.com. These are eight bandas and the lighthouse. Great The world is fascinated but it for families or those who want to takes special people like the get off the beaten truck you can Bredons, the Fleur Ng’wenos and visit Ruma National Park. the Wangari Maathai’s to show
About the Author:
Robert is a tour consultant in Kenya and has planned business and vacation safaris for over 10,000 tourists in the East African region. He is a tour operation- major and involved in National tourism policy development in Kenya. For more info visit: http://www.landmarksafaris.com/planner
Read more articles by: Robert Muhoho
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