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Romantic Paris
orm Goldman, Editor of href="http://www.Sketchandt Financial Times, United Airlines'
ravel.com" Hemispheres, Condé Nast
itle="http://www.Sketchandtravel. Traveller, among others.
com"
target="_blank">www.Sketchandtrav
el.com and href="http://www.Bookpleasures.co She is the author of Three
m" Perfect Days in Paris, aired as a
title="http://www.Bookpleasures.c film on all United Airlines
om" international flights and on
target="_blank">www.Bookpleasures television throughout the world.
.com is excited to have as a The article has won her the first
guest, world- wide Paris expert, award of NATJA (the North
Thirza Vallois. Thirza is the American Travel Journalists'
author of the three volumes of Association).
"Around and About Paris", and
another excellent book, "Romantic
Paris".
Thirza has also contributed the
Paris entry of the latest edition
of The Encarta Encyclopaedia.
Thirza has lived in Paris for the
past 40 years and holds several Thirza is also an expert on the
post-graduate degrees from La Aveyron area in southern France.
Sorbonne. She contributes to During the past several years has
television and radio and has devoted much of her time to
appeared on PBS, BBC, The Travel exploring and studying this
Channel, Discovery, CNN, The region of France. She is now
French Cultural Channel, among completing a new book on this
last hidden region of France, to
be published in 2006.
Good day Thirza and thank you for
accepting to be interviewed by
sketchandtravel.com and
Thirza has also informed me that bookpleasures.com.
she has been travelling
extensively in the USA,
especially to California, about
which she has written a couple Norm:
of articles, with more to follow
Thirza, could you tell us
something about yourself, how you
started as a travel author and
writer, how many travel books
have your written, and why have
you chosen to write about Paris?
Today, Thirza will be discussing
with us why Paris is so romantic?
Thirza:
A long time ago, when I was still
a child, and travelling was still directory-like guidebooks that
the privilege of the "happy make them go through all the
enlightened few", I happened to endless lists of touristy
be blessed with an exceptional "musts", rather than point them
mother who believed that the best to the "real" place, which is the
school was life itself and that city itself. It is only through
the best way to embrace life was an in-depth exploration and the
by travelling. understanding of a place that one
can make the most of one's visit,
and that's what my books "Around
and About Paris" are all about
My exposure therefore started at
a very young age, as did my love
for writing, through which I
expressed myself the way one does Like all forms of
through painting, singing, self-expression, there is always
playing an instrument, an element of therapy behind the
dancing.... I never intended to motivation, and I certainly
become a writer, it was just part needed to do my own therapy
of me. And I never chose to write regarding Paris when the idea of
about Paris. It just happened, writing about Paris began to
and for two specific reasons gestate in my mind, back in the
looking back with hindsight. 1980s. Paris has changed
dramatically since, but in those
days it was an exasperating
place, inhabited by very
Being a savvy traveller, it upset difficult people, to say the
me to see how most visitors to least, and my feelings for it
Paris (and any other place), do were far from the phony "I love
it the wrong way, using Paris in the spring time" picture
postcard cultivated by Hollywood. having embarked on my new
It was really a love and hate project, my book on the Aveyron
passion, and I needed to which is now more than two thirds
understand my own heart, which done.
could only happen through
understanding the city.
Norm:
It is the combination of the
above that gave birth to my
3-volume series, "Around and Can you explain to our audience
About Paris". As for "Romantic why Paris is among the top
Paris", it was their natural romantic
extension in a way. Once I
provided my reader with all the venues in the world?
meaty stuff, it was time to
relax, enjoy and feast, and who
does it better than lovers? It
was a book written for lovers, Thirza:
past, present, and future, for
whom Paris, more than any other
city I can think of, has been Everyone asks me this same
designed by the gods. This also question, on every interview. The
answers your other question. I answer I give is always the same,
have so far written four books on and best resumed in the
Paris. I have actually written a introduction to "Romantic Paris".
fifth book on Paris, targeting Rather than paraphrase, let me
children, but have never pursued quote directly from my book:
its publication (to my regret),
the past, I travelled into my own
psyche looking for an answer, but
"For decades I tried to figure I came back empty-handed. There
out why Paris is shrouded in such simply is no answer. There lies
mystique. Granted, walks at night the beauty of the enigma. Paris
along the Seine are enchanting, is poetry, Paris is mystery,
but that alone cannot explain why Paris is beauty-an exasperating
the very mention of Paris had decoy that never quite delivers,
always conjured up tales of all the more compelling for its
romance, well before it was imperfection, the archetypal
blessed with gas or electricity, reservoir of all our
well before its exquisitely lit passions...."
street-corners were replicated
the world over in black-and-white
print. After all, medieval Paris
was a dark den of filth, reeking Norm:
with nauseous stench, and the two
sinister prison fortresses that
jutted out of its skyline could
hardly have been conducive to If you had to choose six unique
romance. Not to mention the 32 romantic venues in Paris, where
rotting corpses dangling in the would they be and why?
offing when the royal gallows was
used to full capacity. Yet the
myth has been perpetuated for a
good thousand years. Thirza:
Very tough question, and it
I racked my brains, I dug into sometimes depends on the season
or time of day or night, because
"romantic" implies seclusion.
*Buttes Chaumont, which has all
the ingredients of a Brahms
symphony that would have appealed
*Definitely the two western tips to the likes of Lord Byron: a
of the two central islands, Ile grotto, a dramatic waterfall, a
de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis, lake with weeping willows, sheer
but down the steps, at water cliffs topped by a Temple de
level, and in the case of Ile l'Amour-what better place for a
Saint-Louis, preferably after lovers' kiss with eastern Paris
dark. spread like a carpet at your
feet!
*The tiny place de Fürstemberg,
near the church of * Palais Royal (the home of
Saint-Germain-des-Prés: it is a writer Colette and Jean Cocteau),
rare jewel after dark, but is in early morning, before the
also quite heavenly in the arrival of the crowds, or at
morning, when one can meanwhile night time, after they have
take in the delightful little departed.
Delacroix Museum.
* Montmartre, especially on the
*Place Dauphine, on the western little frequented side streets,
side of Ile de la Cité, also again in the early hours of the
preferably after dark. morning, or after dark.
boat on the river Seine. These
come in different categories and
Norm: different price ranges, my
favourite fleet being "Les Yachts
de Paris". Nothing equals in
terms of urban beauty and glamour
Could you describe to our the city's river views, even more
audience six unique wedding so when seen from the water. Try
venues in Paris to celebrate a to prolong your festivities into
marriage, and explain why you the night so as to enjoy the
would consider these venues to be splendour of the floodlighting.
most unique?
Les Yachts de Paris
Thirza:
10, quai Henri IV, 75004
Tel: 01 44 54 14 70
Once more the choice is tough, so
I am trying to be as eclectic as
I can, to match people's
different tastes. *At a price, every monument of
Paris is for hire, even the
Château of Versailles. If I were
to hire one of them (or just part
of one) for my wedding, I would
probably go for the
*Without any shadow of doubt, my Jacquemart-André Museum, because
first choice would go to a cruise as the one-time home of the
famous art collectors Edouard
André and Nélie Jacquemart, it
has a private feel,to a certain Le Pré Catelan
extent, despite its palatial
glamour, which makes it an ideal Bois de Boulogne
venue for a wedding occasion. The
couple's fabulous art collection Route de Suresnes, 75016
is on permanent display on the
magnificent premises of the Tel 01 44 14 41 14
museum.
*If you wish to have it
Musée Jacquemart-André countrified while staying in
central Paris, you can opt for
158, Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 the discreet magnificence of the
peach-coloured Laurent, in the
lower gardens of the
Champs-Elysées, and still enjoy
the leafy surroundings of one of
*Countrified weddings are always the city's most prestigious
appealing, and the Bois de neighbourhoods (the presidential
Boulogne is as countrified as you residence is across the street).
can get within the boundaries of Make sure to hire a dining room
Paris. Le Pré Catelan offers that comes with a terrace.
luxury and refinement amidst
beautiful green surroundings,
combined with the the renowned Le Le Laurent
Nôtre's top-quality catering.
41, avenue Gabriel, 75008
Tél: 01 49 54 74 74
Tel: 01 42 25 00 39
*The avenue d'Iéna, in the plush
*There was once an excellent film neighbourhood of the 16th
by Chabrol, Le charme discret de arrondissement, is home to a
la bourgeoisie. That kind of magnificent town mansion from the
charm, which was first and late 19th century, decorated in
foremost that of the old traditional, period French style
aristocracy, was beautifully and overlooking a beautiful
captured by Marcel Proust. It garden. Ideal for a wedding in
still lingers on Faubourg Saint grand style.
Germain in the 7th
arrondissement, notably in the
18th century townhouse, now the
home of the celebrated Ecole La Maison des Arts et
Polytechnique alumni, where many Métiers
of the nation's creme de la creme
elite were trained. 9bis avenue d'Iéna
75116 Paris
La Maison des Tel: 01 40 69 27 00
Polytechniciens
12, rue de Poitiers
75007 Paris
of that same arrondissement.
Norm: There is a legal procedure to go
by and you will need to seek
legal advice for that. If you are
considering a civil marriage in
If you are planning to have France, a lawyer is the person to
a destination wedding in Paris, consult, obviously (although I do
how far in advance should you know how it works, this is not
prepare for the wedding, and the right forum to expand on
where would you go to find out administrative issues). You may
about the legal requirements? also require the service of a
notaire, should you be dealing
with property issues. Your lawyer
can refer you to a notaire. On
Thirza: the other hand, you don't need to
be a French resident for the
celebration of your religious or
non-religious ceremony, nor do
There is a strict you need any legal advice for
separation between state and that. However, you should
church in France (see the recent definitely prepare for it as
headlines about the Islamic early as possible because, as
veil.....). This is important to they say, "the early bird catches
understand because only civil the prey". Certainly months
marriage is recognised by French ahead, if not a year, should you
law. It is celebrated by the plan your wedding to take place
Mayor of the arrondissement where in spring or early summer.
one of the spouses resides, and
the ceremony takes place in the
Salle de Marriage of the Mairie
Norm: fairy tale. As an extra bonus,
this is a medium-range restaurant
pricewise.
If you had to choose three
of the most romantic restaurants
in Paris, which ones would you Le Coupe-Chou
choose and why?
9, rue de Lanneau, 75005
Tel: 01 46 33 68 69
Thirza:
* Le Beauvilliers in Montmartre,
on the other hand, is a pricy
* If by romantic we imply place, but as good as it comes
secluded cosiness which is what and cheaper than others that fall
lovers usually seek, and since I into that category. Here you step
haven't yet focused on winter, into the romantic splendour of
the Coupe Chou comes first to my the Second Empire in the heart of
mind, located in an ancient real Montmartre, just a few
medieval house in the Latin minutes'walk from the differently
Quarter, a few steps away from (yet equally) romantic and
the Sorbonne. It's all dark nooks cottagy Lapin Agile cabaret,
and crannies, which are graced where I would head after dinner,
with glowing log fires. If only for a night filled with old
it could snow more often in Paris French songs, sketches and hearty
than it does these days! It would laughter.
then be altogether fit for a
Le Beauvilliers Lapérouse,
52, rue Lamarck, 75018 51, quai des Grands-Augustins,
75006
Tel: 01 42 54 54 42
Tel: 01 43 26 68 04
* Lapérouse, a pricy place too,
cannot be overlooked either, its Norm:
scintillating setting having been
the rendezvous of Venus's
protegés. There is even a
private boudoir-lounge where the If a couple were planning to
two of you can dine alone honeymoon in Paris, and were not
undisturbed. It comes with sure which area to stay in, which
elaborate, dainty decorations and three areas of the city would you
is named La Belle Otero after the choose and why?
famous, fiery courtesan. If you
are worried for your good
reputation, note that France's
most honoured members of literati Thirza:
also dined here regularly, Victor
Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, George
Sand among them. Remember that
the French have a sophisticated,
unpuritanical approach to love.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés/Luxembour
g area, Paris at its most "hôtels de charme" to choose
sophisticated, colourful and among and is within a few
arty, lined with extraordinary minutes' walk from both the
boutiques that will be hard to Marais, on the Right Bank, and
resist. It boasts a greater the Latin Quarter on the Left
number of "hôtels de charme" Bank.
than any other part of the city,
which speaks for itself, and
that's exactly the kind of hotel
a honeymooning couple would Norm:
choose to stay at, short of
choosing one of the city's luxury
hotels.
Is Paris a safe city to
visit?
The Marais is similar in spirit
but is less spacious, and doesn't
have a park. It also has several Thirza:
"hôtels de charme", though not
quite so many as Saint-Germain.
No city and no place on
earth is full proof. As I am
Ile Saint-Louis because it is a writing this interview South East
self-contained miniature of Asia is subjected to a deluvian
romance, lined with boutiques and tragedy, all the way to the
eating places of all sorts, and eastern shores of Africa. Paris
conveniently located for every is as safe as a big city can be,
part of Paris. It has four but one should always use one's
common sense and avoid carrying
cash and other valuables when
going out. Pickpocketing is rife,
and I have been victim to it many Obviously spring time is unique.
a time myself- A brief moment of Good weather is never guaranteed
distraction and your wallet is though, no matter what time of
gone. Leave all your valuables in year, but should the gods be with
your safe, and carry a photocopy you, then spring, by definition,
of your passport rather than the is the season of romance, and an
original document. Watch out even early feel of spring can even be
at the airport and hold on to detected as early as on
your handbag in all public places Valentine's.
(including your taxi: some
delinquents may open the door and
snatch your bag at a traffic
light or in a traffic jam. They I personally have a
often operate on motorcycles and distaste for July and August,
that has happened to me too). Be especially from the middle of
sensible but not paranoid. July on. Most Parisians are
replaced by tourists, often in
organised crowds, and it just
isn't it. This can also happen at
Norm: weekends during spring because
Europeans nowadays are very fond
of weekend city breaks. Fall is a
beautiful time of year, often
When is the best time to visit accompanied by a lingering Indian
Paris from the point of view of summer, which the golden beauty
climate, crowds, travel deals, of the trees contribute to
etc? enhance.
Norm:
Strange as it may seem, I find
Paris particularly romantic in
winter, when the leafless trees
allow you to enjoy the How easy or difficult is it to
architecture of its buildings. get around Paris?
After dark the city is altogether
magical,as its street lamps don
it with an amber light. It can be
cold, but all you have to do is Thirza:
dress accordingly and make the
most of the fact that you are
likely to be alone out there and
the entire city will belong to It is extremely easy to get
you and your sweetheart, as you around Paris. Public
stroll through the streets or by transportation (buses, métro and
the river into the late hours of RER express trains) is very
the night. At Christmas time you efficient and many lines run
will also enjoy the festive beyond midnight. Taxis are easily
decorations, which, it being available except on weekend
Paris, tend to be exquisitely nights. They also get grabbed
elegant and tasteful. into thin air as soon as it
starts raining. However, Paris is
As for travel deals, they are the regularly disrupted by protest
same all over the world. Prices and other demonstrations (the
shoot up in the summer and French thrive on them), which can
plummet in the low season. paralyse the city, usually from
2:00 pm on, often with no
forewarning. It is therefore good
to stay in central Paris so that of things to be done and enjoyed
you can make your way back to on all budgets, including low
your hotel on foot, should you budgets. Paris can truly be
experience one of those typically enjoyed romantically on a
French "happenings". shoestring. The best of Paris is
strolling through its streets,
and that costs little or nothing.
I have designed several romantic
Norm: walks for you in "Romantic
Paris". That's over and above the
scores of walks woven into
"Around and About Paris". Put on
Is there anything else your most comfortable footgear
that you wish to add about and venture into the city,
Romantic Paris that we have not including in the heart of winter.
discussed? Soak it all up. And try, just
once, to stay up all night, so
that you can enjoy a sunrise
either from the river, or from
Thirza: the foot of the Sacré Coeur.
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