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Thinking Of Traveling To Alaska
oday Norm Goldman, Editor interviewed.
of href="http://www.Sketchandt
avel.com"
title="http://www.Sketchandtravel Norm:
.com"
target="_blank">www.Sketchandtrav
el.com and href="http://www.Bookpleasures.co Please tell our readers something
m" about yourself, your educational
title="http://www.Bookpleasures.c background, and the books you
om" have written and are now in the
target="_blank">www.Bookpleasures process of writing.
.com is pleased to have as a
guest, writer and travel book
author, Nancy Thalia Reynolds.
Nancy:
Nancy's principal area of
expertise is Alaska, British I'm a 5th generation Pacific
Colombia, and the Yukon Northwesterner. My father had a
Territory. Nancy is co-author of profound wanderlust and an
Going Places Family Getaways In enthusiasm for discovering new
The Pacific Northwest. people and places that rubbed off
on me. A university professor, he
held jobs around the U.S. and
Brazil. I lived in California,
Good Day Nancy and thank you for Brazil, Washington and Oregon
accepting our invitation to be before moving to New York at age
17 to attend Sarah Lawrence Your Child was published in 1993.
College. My upbringing allowed me
to feel at home in widely
different milieus and engendered This opened the doors for me.
deep curiosity about other lands,
and I've had a passion for travel I contributed the British
since childhood. Although I did Columbia section to the fourth
cherish dreams of writing a great edition of Going Places: Family
novel as a kid, the passion for Getaways in the Pacific
travel writing came later. Northwest, published in 2000, and
went on to write Going Places:
Alaska and the Yukon for
Families, which comes out in
After college, I moved to Canada April 2005. Both titles are
and worked a few years before available from Sasquatch Books.
attending York University Law
School. On graduating, I worked
at public interest law firms
first in Toronto, then Vancouver I just completed a new Alaska
where I wrote and edited legal travel book, Activity Guide to
self-help materials before moving the Inside Passage: Whether You
to the US to marry. At that time Have Four Hours or Four Days.
I made a strategic decision to Sasquatch will publish it in
abandon law and become a January 2006.
full-time writer.
My first venture into authoring a
book was when I wrote Adopting
miles south, bordered to the east
by BC. At the top of the
panhandle, the towns of Skagway
Norm: and Haines offer road access to
the rest of Alaska, the US and
Canada.
Where is the Yukon Territory and
Alaska, and how easy is it to
travel from the United States, The easiest way to get here is by
Canada or Europe to these areas? air. International air carriers
serve Vancouver and Anchorage.
National carriers serve these
destinations and Whitehorse (the
Nancy: Yukon capital). Alaska Airlines
serves major Alaska cities and
many smaller communities. Air
Canada and its partners serve BC
Yukon Territory is bordered to and the Yukon. Throughout the
the south by British Columbia, to region, huge distances make plane
the east by the Northwest travel essential. Smaller
Territories, to the north by the airline, charter and air taxi
Beaufort Sea in the Arctic and to service is widely available
the west by the state of Alaska. across the north. From Seattle, a
Most of Alaska sits to the left non-stop flight to Anchorage
of Canada, but the gorgeous takes 3.25 hours. From Vancouver,
Alaska panhandle, a narrow a non-stop flight to Whitehorse
coastal strip with widely takes 2.5 hours.
separated communities, many on
islands, runs several hundred
Territories. It's not paved but
Highways run north through BC and in good summer weather can be
Alberta, connecting to the Alaska driven comfortably.
Highway, which starts officially
at Dawson Creek, BC, and runs
through the Yukon into central
Alaska. It is 817 miles from In Alaska one can drive from
Seattle to mile zero of the Anchorage to Denali National
Alaska Highway; and 548 miles Park, home of the continent's
from Calgary. highest mountain, spectacular
Mount McKinley, in eight hours on
good paved highway. Four more
hours brings you to Fairbanks,
The Alaska Highway itself is with road access to the Yukon and
1,390 miles long, ending at Delta points north. Many northern
Junction, Alaska. Another 98 highways offer good driving
miles brings you to Fairbanks. conditions, breathtaking mountain
The road is paved all the way, and ocean views, and very little
and services are rarely more than traffic apart from the occasional
100 miles apart--usually closer. moose or bear ambling across the
roadway.
Once in the Yukon, motorists can
drive to Dawson City, ground zero Norm:
of the Klondike Gold Rush, and
over the Top of the World highway
to Alaska. The Dempster Highway
leads north from Dawson to Would you consider Alaska and the
Inuvik, through the Northwest Yukon Territory a good choice for
a romantic getaway or wedding and with visitors. However, if your
honeymoon destination? Why? idea of a holiday or honeymoon is
lying on a tropical beach, you'll
want to look elsewhere.
Nancy:
Let's look at weddings first.
The answer is a resounding
yes--for the right couple. This
region contains the world's Getting your wedding party up
largest protected wilderness, north can be a challenge,
spanning Alaska, British although it could also be a
Columbia, and Yukon Territory and magnificent experience. Alaska
designated a UN World Heritage has several five-star hotels in
site. the Anchorage area; otherwise
most choices can be characterized
as comfortable but rustic. A
large wedding party and
The scenery is magnificent, guests--more than 100
access to wildlife unequalled, people--could be accommodated in
and despite its ever-increasing Anchorage, Juneau, Fairbanks or
popularity as a tourist Whitehorse. The Captain Cook, in
destination, has many Anchorage, or the nearby Alyeska
all-but-undiscovered destinations Resort in Girdwood, would be top
to explore. Native cultures, choices. Smaller wedding parties
largely eclipsed down south, are can be comfortably accommodated
major players in the north, and in many places.
are glad to share their world
"· The lovely Windsong
Lodge near Seward on the Kenai
For honeymoons and romantic Peninsula makes a great home base
getaways, options are endless. from which to explore Kenai
Cities offer the usual urban Fjords National Park where you
amenities; but to experience the can get up close to beautiful
unique attractions of Alaska and Exit Glacier, hike some of
the Yukon, try: Alaska's loveliest trails, and
kayak among glacier-carved
fjords.
"· An out-of-the-way spot
like the Boardwalk Lodge on
Prince of Wales Island, a great "· The Yukon, especially
choice for fishing enthusiasts. Dawson City and Whitehorse, come
In recent years, visitors have to life in summer. A trip at the
clamoured for a look at the start or end of the season is
world's largest brown bears (AKA recommended. Even in August, fall
grizzlies). colours are rampant and yet
temperatures can rise above
25C/77F. Take a day trip up the
Yukon River to Eagle, Alaska.
"· An August trip to Katmai
National Park & Preserve, with a
stay at the Brooks Lodge, a short
walk from brown bears fishing for Norm:
salmon, is unforgettable.
You mentioned to me that you have
traveled to the north by just taking the Alaska ferry up the
about every means available: Inside Passage; it combines the
plane, cruise ship, sailboat, most access at the least cost in
motoring. Which one did you time and money. And to simply get
prefer and why? north fast and start exploring,
nothing beats flying.
Nancy:
Norm:
I enjoyed all of them. Driving is
great because it allows the most When is the best time to visit
access to the region. If you have Alaska and the Yukon Territory
the luxury of time, the options from the point of view of
are infinite! For visiting weather, costs, crowds, and the
southeast Alaska, travel by water availability of flights from the
is my top choice. The variety of USA, Canada and Europe?
options grows every year. At the
high end are small luxury cruise
lines, or you can book a
sailboat, complete with captain Nancy:
and crew, for your party and go
exploring. For most visitors,
especially those unfamiliar with
the region, large cruise-ship The most affordable time to visit
travel is often the most is the so-called "shoulder
comfortable choice. To experience season." Up north, that's May and
Alaska as Alaskans do, I suggest September. Attractions are open
and flights are available, but and human-generated risks are
crowds are thinner. Mosquitoes, few. However, if you plan to get
which can be a trial throughout into the wilderness, you'll need
the north, are scarce in those to be prepared, inform yourself
months, yet days are still long. and take sensible precautions.
Thrifty-minded visitors can find Read up on the terrain and the
cheaper flights and often bargain wildlife. Learn how to handle
for lower hotel rates at this bear and moose encounters. If
time. Cruise fares tend to be you're visiting in January,
lower as well. For a winter trip, you'll need cold-weather clothing
avoid Christmas holidays and suitable for average low
school midwinter breaks to obtain temperatures of -22C/-9F. It's
the best rates. not unheard of for temperatures
to reach -40C/-40F. On the other
hand, it comes as a nice surprise
to many summer visitors to the
Norm: Alaska and Yukon interior that
summer temperatures can soar to
27C/81F or even higher.
How safe is it to travel to
Alaska and the Yukon Territory?
Norm:
Nancy:
Could you give our readers an
idea of the costs involved if
travel originates from the USA or
Quite safe. The crime rate is low Canada?
"· Restaurant prices run
higher everywhere; budget about
20% more than you'd need in urban
Nancy: Canada or the U.S. Motel and
hotel costs are similar to those
down south; don't be afraid to
bargain during the off or
"· Given the wide variety of shoulder season.
travel options, it's hard to be
precise. If you can be flexible,
you can often find a return
flight from Seattle to Anchorage "· Cruise fares are complex
for around $250. Although it's and bewildering, but if you're
closer, flying to Juneau will prepared to do the homework and
cost more, from $50-100 cost comparison required, you can
usually--US dollars of course. obtain remarkable deals. It's
From Vancouver to Whitehorse, possible to snag an inside
return; expect to pay at least stateroom for a seven-day cruise
$200, Canadian. between Vancouver and Seward,
Alaska, for under $700 per
person. This includes stateroom
and meals, but no alcohol or
"· Drivers will find shore excursions. Still, it's a
gasoline prices moderate in deal that's hard to beat. For a
Canada and low to moderate in romantic getaway, consider
Alaska, thanks to the oil traveling in the early shoulder
pipeline. season and apply the savings to
upgrading to an outside stateroom
with a veranda.
travel agent! OK, here goes.
Norm:
For more information, my book
Going Places: Alaska and the
If you had to choose 6 unequalled Yukon for Families explores each
venues in Alaska and the Yukon of these destinations in greater
Territory for a romantic getaway, detail. Government Web sites are
honeymoon or wedding destination, another good resource.
which would you choose and why?
"· Glacier Bay National Park
I noticed that you had mentioned & Preserve, Alaska
to me there is some great hot
springs just south of the Yukon
border on the Alaska Highway and
in central Alaska. Perhaps, you It's accessible (Alaska Airlines
would like to elaborate as how offers service to Gustavus, just
this venue qualifies as a unique outside the park) and offers a
romantic destination? taste of just about everything
the north has to offer. Although
Gustavus has excellent B&Bs, for
honeymooners I recommend staying
Nancy: at Glacier Bay Lodge, the only
accommodation inside the park,
which offers rustic comfort (get
Only 6? That's not easy; I'll a room with a view of Bartlett
have to commune with my inner Cove), fine dining, and
activities like kayaking, in real estate. It's
fishing, biking, guided boat highway-accessible from Skagway
tours of Glacier Bay, and free (4.5 hours), Haines (3 hours) and
guided hikes with park rangers. Whitehorse (1.5 hours). The
Go flightseeing high above the national park's main visitor
bay to get a look at the enormous centre is in town along with a
icefields that generate the superb small European-style
glaciers. If time allows, extend inn--the Raven--with 12 spacious
your trip to Juneau (a gorgeous, rooms and one of Canada's top
3-hour ferry trip south) to visit restaurants. Also in town are
Mendenhall Glacier, tour superb several decent motels and an
museums, shop for Tlingit art and excellent bakery and cafe. From
take a boat tour to Tracy here, you can access excellent
Arm-Ford's Terror Wilderness. The hiking trails for all levels of
lodge is open and tours are fitness, and explore the largest
offered between late May and protected wilderness in the
early September. world. You will need a vehicle.
If you don't have one with you,
rentals are available in Haines,
Skagway and Whitehorse. Or book a
"· Haines Junction, YT stay with one of the area's
full-service resorts and let them
take you exploring. NOTE TO
CANADIANS: For reasons no one
Come again? You may never have seems able to explain, Canadians
heard of it, but this tiny town are not permitted to bring a
perched at the edge of Canada's vehicle into Canada, which they
spectacular Kluane National Park have rented in the US. Luckily,
has a lot to offer--location, Whitehorse has many rental
location, location, as they say outlets.
"· Denali National Park &
Preserve, Alaska
"· Homer, Alaska
First the bad news: Unless you
On the southwest of the Kenai are lucky enough to win the road
Peninsula, Homer is the better lottery that allows you to drive
part of a day's drive from deep into the park in mid
Anchorage. It's tiny (about 4,000 September, you will have plenty
residents) but with city-sized of crowds to contend with. The
amenities--such as one of good news is that it's worth it.
Alaska's best bookstores, a Not only is this closest you can
first-rate museum, and easily get to Mount McKinley,
exceptional arts and crafts wildlife viewing and spectacular
galleries. Homer Spit, which scenery are among the best in
extends 4.4 miles into scenic Alaska, and accommodation choices
Kachemak Bay, is studded with are superb and varied. At the
cafes and shops. At the far end, park entrance you can find many
with Homer's best view, is Land's choices at all price ranges, some
End Resort, a great destination with views to die for. To get
for honeymooners. Book a suite or away from the crowds and closer
rent a luxurious condo. The to the natural world of Denali,
restaurant is first rate. Soak in consider a stay deep inside the
the hot tub at the water's edge park at the beautiful, rustic
and watch the sea otters float Kantishna Roadhouse or Denali
by. Backcountry Lodge.
"· Alyeska Resort, Girdwood,
Alaska OK, it's not in the Yukon, but so
close! This gorgeous turquoise
lake lies in the northern Rocky
Mountains--a little-known but
This Japanese-owned hotel offers enchanted region where caribou
sheer, unabashed luxury. Plus and stone sheep wander the
it's 40 miles from Anchorage and highways, fishing is excellent,
a day trip from Portage Glacier and crowds are nonexistent. The
and the Kenai Peninsula. In Northern Rockies Lodge offers
winter come for skiing, tubing fine accommodation and European
and snowboarding; in summer, for dining and arrange fishing and
golf, hiking and wildlife. Any other excursions. Hiking and
time of year, enjoy the fishing are great here, but the
first-class amenities that number-one romantic attraction is
include a superb health club and nearby Liard Hot Springs
pool and a tram up to a Provincial Park, 34 miles up the
mountaintop restaurant This is a Alaska Highway. A boardwalk trail
popular spot for weddings, well leads from the park's parking lot
equipped to handle even lavish to two large hot springs pools.
affairs. The high season here is TIP: A short walk from the
winter; summer stays can be quite first, most popular pool is the
moderately priced. For a cheaper second hotter and deeper pool
romantic getaway, that's more secluded and less
visited, a great destination on a
drizzly day. Stopping at the
springs is a tradition for just
"· Muncho Lake, BC about everyone who drives the
Alaska Highway. If you don't want
to bother with a vehicle, the Fairbanks, Alaska, has been
lodge (it's owned by bush pilots) offering such packages.
will fly you here from the US or
Canada.
The resort has always been a
favorite getaway for Alaskans for
Norm: winter sports like cross-country
skiing and snowmobiling. The
resort has several indoor hot
pools, but the favourite is its
You have also mentioned to me hot-springs lake outdoors. Bask
that Asian tourists in recent in the warm waters, surrounded by
years have been flocking north in snow and subzero temperatures,
winter on aurora-viewing while you gaze up at the aurora
packages. Could you elaborate as overhead.
to what these entail and what can
someone expect to see?
Winter packages include rides on
a "snow catch" to view the
Nancy: aurora. The "aurorarium," nicely
heated, offers a comfortable
vantage point to watch the light
show. Yukon and Alaska tour
These are great fun and growing companies now offer
in popularity every year. For aurora-viewing tour packages,
some years, Chena Hot Springs usually three or four nights.
Resort, a rustic but delightful
spot a few hours drive from
way to plan a vacation. No matter
Norm: your age or fitness
level--honeymoon couples, large
wedding or family-reunion
parties, toddlers, college
In recent years cruises to Alaska students, and retirees--anyone
have become very popular. Could can enjoy a cruise. There is
you tell our readers why and do onboard entertainment (usually
you have any preferences as to casino gambling, art auctions,
which cruise to take? Vegas-style shows, and gala
dining), programs for kids, shore
excursions to sample the
principal attractions of major
Nancy: ports of call and whales, bald
eagles and other wildlife to
view, all from the comfort of the
ship.
"· The answer is simple.
Some of Alaska's most spectacular
attractions are to be found along
the Inside Passage. Yet, because "· Cruises permit access to
they are separated by water and a beautiful but remote and rugged
most are inaccessible by road, part of the world in sheer
the only way to reach them is by luxury. Visiting Alaska, I often
plane or boat. encounter visitors who are making
their third or fourth trip, but
whose first was by cruise ship.
Considering the bargains
"· Another reason: cruise available, it's also one of the
travel is a remarkably flexible most cost-effective ways to visit
the north. and gambling, try one of the
smaller lines like Cruise West
or, Lindblad (if your wallet can
handle the strain).
"· For those unfamiliar with
Alaska, I recommend taking a
one-way cruise from Vancouver,
BC, that includes a visit to NORM:
lovely Sitka (round trip cruises
rarely stop at Sitka). Finishing
at Skagway, Whittier, or Seward,
visitors can make their way to How far in advance should a
Anchorage for a couple of days couple prepare themselves for
and even tack on a short 2-3 day their honeymoon, romantic getaway
train trip to Denali before or wedding in Alaska and the
flying out of Anchorage back to Yukon Territory?
Vancouver or the point of origin.
TIP: check out one-way airfares
offered by the cruise lines. They
are often cheaper than anything Nancy:
you can arrange on your own.
"· We're trending out of my
"· Amenities among the area of expertise here, but let's
biggest cruise lines tend to be take a wedding first. If you need
similar. For a romantic getaway lodging for 20 or 30 people,
on a major line, I like Royal you'll find a wide range of
Caribbean, Radisson or Silver options, many of which can be
Sea. If you can do without a pool booked with no more than 6 month
to a year's notice--the amount of September--and find topnotch
advance planning most weddings options. TIP: if you're looking
require. If, however, your guest for a great place to roost during
list includes 80 or more, you'll the summer high season, try towns
find fewer suitable destinations along the Inside Passage. Because
and those you do find will need most tourists visit via cruise
to be booked as soon as possible. ship or ferry and don't spend the
A popular choice for weddings, night, you can often find
such as the Alyeska Resort, can excellent accommodation in
be booked far in advance. Ketchikan (try the WestCoast Cape
Fox Lodge with a spectacular view
of Tongass Narrows), lovely Sitka
(the Westmark Sitka is a good
"· For a honeymoon, if you bet) or Haines (the historic
want the top suite at the Captain Hotel Halsingland has several
Cook in Anchorage, a remote but antique-studded suites). But in
popular resort such as the Juneau, the state capital, if the
Kantishna Roadhouse in Denali or legislature runs a summer session
a first-class suite on a popular the top hotels--the Goldbelt and
cruise ship, the sooner you book the Baranof--are likely to be
the better. Otherwise, six months booked solid. &nbs |
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